While Thekkady was a familiar destination for Vinod and me, our usual routine involved the thrill of exploring the Periyar tiger reserve – boating, birding, and heading back. This time, however, we opted for a laid-back weekend at a plantation resort, surrounded by the calming aroma of cardamom.

While we generally find plantations visually unappealing despite their lush greenery, cardamom plantations offer a silver lining.

The resort itself wasn’t bad – we spotted white-bellied treepies, jungle babblers, hill mynas, and the constant melody of the Malabar whistling thrush filled the air. Except for Vinod’s rumbly stomach (caused by resort’s oily food) everything seemed perfect for a relaxing getaway.

Balcony birding is not an adrenaline-fueled trek through dense forests, but a chance to unwind and reconnect with nature right from your own space. It’s the perfect way to add a touch of laid-back birding to a relaxing weekend.

Yet, as we embarked on our return journey, a strange feeling lingered. An unexplainable itch, a sense that something was missing. Despite the peaceful vibes and beautiful surroundings, our trip felt oddly incomplete.

Our return journey took an unexpected turn when we decided to detour through the Gavi forest. The landscape transformed dramatically as we began the drive. A shimmering river snaked alongside the road on one side, a welcome change from the plantation scenery. Upon reaching the checkpoint, Vinod approached an official to inquire about the forest. The official’s enthusiastic explanation of trekking and safari options within Gavi sparked a change of plans. Neither Vinod nor I had ever visited Gavi before, so the prospect of exploring this new wilderness thrilled us. We traded the lush greenery of the plantation for dense wooded areas, streams trickling across our path, and then, to our surprise, vast expanses of grasslands began to unfold. These rolling, grassy mountains were an unexpected delight for both of us.

The view held us captive. Outside the monoculture blanket of the plantation, the ecosystem transformed dramatically.

Fresh elephant dung scattered across the road heightened Vinod’s excitement. “Keep your eyes peeled for elephants,” he urged. I scanned the roadside cautiously, anticipation building. Then, there they were! A magnificent family of elephants emerged from the tall grasses. Our hearts swelled as we watched them graze peacefully, a sight straight out of a storybook. Two adults, a sub-adult, and a playful calf – a perfect family portrait.

Witnessing the elephants here brought back powerful memories of our Manas encounter. Seeing these gentle giants roam freely, I felt peaceful.

This wasn’t just any wildlife sighting. It was a moment of connection for me. I had recently read a WWF book titled “Valliyin Bayanam” to my child, where Valli and her classmates encounter various wild animals in the Western Ghats. Now, instead of illustrations in a book, we were witnessing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. The joy of sharing this real-life experience with my child was truly special.

My usual routine of spotting flowers fell short on this trip. Apart from a few scattered balsam and a single orchid, the vibrant blooms I expected were absent. To add to my disappointment, the roadsides were overrun by Koster’s curse, an invasive plant species.

On one hand, vast monoculture plantations, while seemingly green, paint a disheartening picture. On the other hand, we witnessed the alarming spread of invasive species like Clidemia hirta. This aggressive plant is wreaking havoc in Kerala’s forests, choking out native flora and threatening the delicate balance of these pristine areas.

It’s always disheartening to see these alien invaders take root in pristine areas, choking out the native flora and fauna that the ecosystem depends on. The scenic drive through Gavi forest continued to impress. We stopped at a breathtaking viewpoint to soak it all in before reaching our destination near the Gavi dam. Entering the reception area to show our permits, a stunning Restricted demon butterfly perched on the window!

Restricted demon on Vinod’s finger before we released it back outside

After a delicious lunch, we embarked on a private boating adventure. Gliding peacefully across the water, we were captivated by the surrounding beauty. A hidden waterfall emerged from the lush foliage, a delightful surprise. Suddenly, I spotted a Indian black turtle basking on a submerged branch.

A hidden falls is always an attractive sight in a forest area.
A very close encounter of the Indian black turtle during the boat ride.

As we drew closer for a better look, Vinod’s keen eyes spotted a common kingfisher nest on the mudbank, diligently guarded by a pair of the vibrant birds. Our boat trip concluded, and we eagerly awaited our upcoming wildlife safari. Our excitement for the wildlife safari was simmering after a relaxing tea and snack break. However, as we embarked on the adventure, a tinge of disappointment set in. The landscape revealed a mix of forests and human settlements. This fragmented habitat made us realize the constraints placed on wildlife movement. It felt like a stark reminder of humanity’s ever-expanding footprint.

We believe sanctuaries should be havens where wildlife can truly thrive, undisturbed by human presence. Perhaps even our own visit, with all our good intentions, could be considered a form of disruption. Even responsible eco-tourism like our visit might be a subtle disruption.

The museum in Gavi forest

Despite the initial setback, the safari wasn’t entirely devoid of wildlife encounters. We spotted a few peafowls and jungle fowls, and the highlight of the trip arrived at the very end – a majestic Indian Gaur! It had been a while since I’d seen one of these magnificent creatures in the wild, and its size left me awestruck. The safari concluded, and the evening unfolded with a peaceful stroll around our accommodation, where we observed some interesting moth species.

Colorful moths we had sighted in Gavi forest.

Later, after a satisfying dinner, Vinod’s passion for amphibians led him on a nighttime frog hunt. His efforts were rewarded with sightings of several frogs and a multitude of tadpoles.

At night, the Biccolored frogs were sitting everywhere near the edges of the lake.

The next day, while I stayed back with our little one, Vinod embarked on a casual trek with the guide. Unfortunately, the anticipated flower blooms hadn’t yet arrived in the grasslands. However, the trek offered views of the Sabarimala, making it a new experience.

The forest cover !

Our return journey was a visual treat. We were captivated by the ever-changing forest vistas and surprised by a barking deer casually crossing the road, completely unfazed by our presence. An added bonus was encountering the same elephant family we’d seen earlier, seemingly enjoying a relaxing overnight stay by the roadside.

Bidding farewell to the majestic elephants and the captivating Gavi forest, we made a pact to return in August or September, when the vibrant blooms would paint the landscape in a new light.