Living near the Kanniyakumari Wildlife Sanctuary has its perks, especially for butterfly enthusiasts like us. Last year, the news of a mass emergence of Emigrant butterflies excited me a lot. I had witnessed the crimson rose butterflies paint the skies red during their migration to Sri Lanka from Rameswaram, and the mesmerizing congregations of Blue tiger, Common crow butterflies in Silent Valley national park. The thought of witnessing a similar spectacle closer to home was irresistible. However, these natural wonders are fleeting – a week at most. By the time we were free and ready to visit the sanctuary, the abundance had dwindled, leaving me with just Jude’s captivating video as a consolation.
This year, when news arrived of another Emigrant butterfly gathering, I knew I had a window of opportunity. But this time, the adventure wouldn’t be vinod and myself – our intrepid 10-month-old would be joining the butterfly chase! We meticulously prepared for the trip, and luckily, the scorching sun gave way to refreshing rains. While I reveled in the downpour, a sliver of worry crept in – would the showers have scattered the butterflies?
Undeterred, we set off with enthusiasm at sunrise. However, our car seemed to have other plans. Not one, but two flat tires! Determined not to let this setback derail our mission, we waited patiently while the punctures were fixed. Finally, back on track, we pressed on towards Kalikesam.
Our excitement grew as we neared Kalikesam. Even before turning onto the forest roads, we spotted a few Emigrant butterflies flitting about. Hope bloomed – surely, the heart of the forest would be teeming with these winged beauties! We grabbed some yummy vadai and continued towards the Kalikesam eco camp. But along the way, a captivating sight unfolded. Small clusters of Emigrant butterflies were engaged in “mud-puddling,” a behavior where they gather to extract minerals from the soil.
Then, something truly unexpected caught our eye. In a specific section, a vibrant spectacle played out on a patch of Rauvolfia tetraphylla, a non-native wild snake root plant. We’d never seen butterflies congregate on this plant before, so we stopped the car in awe. A closer look revealed a breathtaking mix – White Four-rings, Common Silverlines, Pioneers, Lemon Pansies, Grey Pansies, and of course, a multitude of Emigrant butterflies, all sharing this unusual feast.
Despite the disheartening presence of human litter, the butterflies managed to transform the scene into a pocket of wonder. While I was completely captivated by their fluttering display, Vinod, ever the keen observer, spotted some peculiar mushrooms growing on a nearby log. He snapped a photo, and upon closer inspection he realized it was a dead man’s finger mushroom.
The Emigrant butterflies put on a continuous aerial display along the road. They’d rest in clusters on the roadside, but as buses and autos rumbled by, they’d take flight in a flurry, creating a mesmerizing spectacle for us. Our wide-eyed fascination was a stark contrast to the villagers’ reactions.
Our next encounter with a large cluster of Emigrants unfolded along the roadside, near a few houses. Here, the butterflies were mud-puddling on…well, let’s just say they had a rather unconventional buffet. Leashed cows and goats grazed nearby, providing the butterflies with a source of minerals. While we were enthralled by these fascinating creatures, the soundtrack to the scene was a jarring one – booming 80s Tamil film songs blasting from the houses.
This wasn’t an isolated incident. Recently, the proliferation of loudspeakers for household and temple functions has become a growing source of frustration for me. Throughout the day, even within the supposed tranquility of the forest, the distant thrum of speakers served as a constant reminder of encroaching human noise. It certainly detracted from the immersive wilderness experience I craved.
Our next stop was the Kalikesam eco camp. We headed towards the back of the camp, where a usually vibrant waterbody lay disappointingly dry. However, a few Syzygium caryophyllatum trees stood out in full bloom, attracting a flurry of butterfly activity.
As with any outdoor adventure, a stray dog decided to join our expedition. Unfortunately, whenever we spotted a cluster of Emigrant butterflies and cautiously approached for a closer look, our canine companion would excitedly dash ahead, scattering the delicate creatures in all directions. Despite the occasional butterfly-dispersing dog, it was still a joy to observe these winged wonders and the little munias flitting around on the ground.
The air buzzed with the calls of Red-wattled Lapwings, their shrill cries announcing the presence of their likely nesting ground. Spot Swordtails and Bluebottle butterflies added a splash of color to the predominantly Emigrant scene, though they appeared in smaller numbers.
The hunt for butterflies continued at the Kalikesam River, but unfortunately, it was teeming with tourists. With all the commotion, butterfly movements were scarce. We decided to try our luck near a village bridge. The butterflies were flitting about in vibrant displays. Here, we even spotted a beautiful Pancratium zeylanicum adding to the natural charm.
Our next stop was Koovaikadu. This turned out to be the highlight of our Kalikesam trip! A serene silence blanketed the area, broken only by the cries of Red-wattled Lapwings. Lush bamboo forests dominated the landscape, and we even had a fleeting glimpse of Sambar deer before they gracefully vanished into the undergrowth. Pushing through the bamboo thickets, we emerged into a breathtaking meadow. A small waterbody shimmered in the sunlight, and to my absolute delight, I spotted Drosera Indica, Drosera burmanni, and Utricularia species thriving in this pristine environment.
Emigrants fluttered everywhere, a mesmerizing spectacle against the backdrop of dramatic clouds rolling in from the distance. We spent a magical time in this hidden haven, completely immersed in nature’s beauty. As the first drops of rain began to fall, we reluctantly said goodbye to this incredible place and embarked on our return journey.