Muthukulivayal grassland in in Kanniyakumari Wildlife Sanctuary
The Muthukulivayal grassland in Kanniyakumari district, unlike the well-known Mukurthi grasslands, remains unfamiliar to most people in Tamil Nadu. However, those who are aware of its existence often harbor a strong desire to visit this place at least once in their lifetime. Unfortunately, due to restricted access to the grassland, the majority of individuals are unable to fulfill their wish of experiencing this elusive natural wonder.
Vinod and I have had the opportunity to explore numerous grasslands across India and even abroad. However, we always nurtured a deep desire to visit the enchanting Muthukulivayal grassland in our own hometown. Finally, our wish came true when we had the chance to visit Muthukulivayal during a bird survey.
Our visit to Muthukulivayal was relatively brief. We reached the grassland in a jeep and spent about an hour searching for birds during the noon hours. Unfortunately, we did not come across any birds during that time, except for a few distant bird calls that reached our ears. Nevertheless, we were captivated by the awe-inspiring sight of the rolling mountains adorned with lush green grasses, which offered us a truly breathtaking view.
Vinod was fortunate enough to have another opportunity to visit Muthukulivayal, this time accompanied by a group of grassland researchers. This visit granted him a more extensive period to delve into the wonders of the grassland. They embarked on a short hike, allowing Vinod to explore the shola patches within the grassland and witness the vibrant flora that was in full bloom during that time.
Additionally, he was fortunate to spot a massive monitor lizard roaming the grassland.
However, due to the advanced age of the researchers in the group, they were unable to cover the entire distance and had to return to the base camp earlier than expected. Nonetheless, Vinod made the most of the time he had and savored the unique experiences and encounters that Muthukulivayal had to offer.
To our astonishment, an incredible stroke of luck allowed us to visit Muthukulivayal for the third time within the same year. This time, we made prior arrangements with the Forest Department to extend our stay in the grassland and maximize our explorations. As we embarked on our journey, we traversed through the Balamore estate until we reached the grassland.
However, our jeep encountered an obstacle and we couldn’t go further in jeep.
Nevertheless, our determination to fully immerse ourselves in the grassland experience was unwavering. We decided to continue our exploration on foot, accompanied by a forest officer. Secretly, we felt a sense of satisfaction that circumstances had forced us to proceed on foot, as it was only by walking that we could truly appreciate and explore the rich flora and fauna within the grassland.
As anticipated, our decision to continue on foot rewarded us with captivating encounters along the way. The path unfolded before us, revealing a plethora of exquisite flowers and intriguing insects. Among them, I was particularly captivated by a unique plant adorned with broad, oblong leaves and vibrant yellow flowers known as “Acrotrema arnottianum“. It was a remarkable experience for me, as this plant is endemic to Tamil Nadu and Kerala, making it a rare find.
To our astonishment, the higher altitude also welcomed the presence of the Yellow Pansy butterfly, a species typically observed in dry, open shrub forests found in the lowlands. This unexpected sighting added to the excitement of our journey. At various intervals, we would pause briefly, taking in the breathtaking surroundings and indulging in the exploration of the abundant life that thrived in this remarkable grassland.
It’s the Broad-tailed Grassbird !!
Our excitement grew as we stumbled upon an orchid plant Peristylus richardianus , although we were disheartened to find that it had recently shed its final flower. Just as we were feeling a tinge of disappointment, a small brown bird darted across our path and disappeared into the tall grass. Moments later, it reemerged, briefly pausing while clutching a strand of grass in its beak. In that instant, both Vinod and I exclaimed with delight, recognizing it as the elusive “Broad-tailed Grassbird.” This bird had always managed to evade our sight, but finally, we had the opportunity to witness it in the midst of Muthukulivayal. Although we were unable to capture a photograph of the bird, our hearts were filled with joy knowing that we had the chance to observe the elusive grassbird in person.
As we continued our walk, a sense of tranquility enveloped us in the absence of any other human presence. We reveled in the solitude and serenity that the place offered. Gradually, we noticed the emergence of delicate pink blooms, peeking out amidst the grassland. My excitement peaked when I spotted the Syncolostemon comosus, commonly known as the hairy java tea.
This particular plant is endemic to South India and thrives solely at this altitude. While Vinod had previously encountered it in KMTR, this marked my first sighting of this unique flower. Notably, the leaves of the plant emitted a strong fragrance, characteristic of its belonging to the Lamiaceae family. The combined visual and olfactory experience added to the joy and wonder of our journey.
Upon reaching the watchtower, which served as the starting point for KMTR, we paused to absorb the enchanting atmosphere. From this vantage point, we could hear the melodious chorus of birds emanating from the nearby shola patch.
Suddenly, a flock of Rufous babblers emerged, casting curious glances in our direction. Our attention was soon captivated by a peculiar and resounding call, unmistakably belonging to the Great Indian Hornbill. Eagerly, we lingered, hoping for a glimpse of this majestic bird emerging from the dense foliage. However, despite our patient wait, the hornbill remained concealed within the depths of the shola.
Our visit to Muthukulivayal took place just a few days after Karthigai Deepam, a significant Hindu festival celebrated in Tamil Nadu. During this festival, we light traditional lamps at our homes and indulge in the delicious treat of kozhukattai, a sweet, steamed dumpling.
Personally, I have always cherished my mother’s palm leaf kozhukattai, which happens to be my favorite snack. For this journey, I had brought along a few of these delectable snacks, which we enjoyed munching on during our return walk. There’s something incredibly gratifying about relishing such personalized treats in unique locations, as it adds an extra layer of excitement to the memories we create.
Striped Hedge hopper
During our exploration, we were fortunate to spot the Hedge hopper, a skipper butterfly that exclusively inhabits high altitude grasslands, along with several other captivating butterfly species. As we made our way back to the jeep, our driver was already prepared and waiting for us. Brimming with excitement, we engaged in animated conversations, sharing our intriguing observations from the grassland.
During a brief stop in the Balamore estate, something caught our attention. From the depths of the valley, a familiar sound of wing beats resonated through the air. With keen eyes, Vinod spotted the majestic Great Indian Hornbill soaring through the skies. It was a truly special moment for me as well, as I finally had the opportunity to witness this magnificent bird in the Kanniyakumari district. Despite having encountered the Great Indian Hornbill on multiple occasions, its awe-inspiring presence never fails to captivate both Vinod and me.
With each visit, Vinod and I have cherished and created beautiful memories in Muthukulivayal.
The allure of this place is such that we yearn to return in various seasons, eager to witness the ever-changing colors of the grasses and the array of blooms that grace the landscape. Each season promises a unique experience, and we eagerly anticipate the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the different facets of this enchanting grassland.
The famous Arikomban elephant who raids on local shops in Munnar for rice has been moved to Muthukulivayal by the Forest Department. Hope he finds his home in this beautiful grassland.